Restaurant review: Tertulia

As I have previously mentioned, I am not a big tapas fan. I don't really like to share food, (which my husband attributes to the 8 months I spent sharing a placenta with my twin sister), I don't like small servings, and I don't consider myself a lover of Spanish cuisine. So, last spring, when my sister and several of her friends decided to invest in Seamus Mullen's new tapas restaurant, I thought she was nuts.

In case he's not a household name in your house, let me introduce to you chef Seamus: in 2006, Mullen, a Vermont-born chef who had studied and cooked in Spain, earned two stars from the New York Times at Boqueria, a Spanish restaurant he opened in the Flatiron District (a second location in SoHo has since opened). In 2010, he and the Boqueria team parted ways and he returned to Spain, where he was inspired by the local cider houses of the Asturias to open Tertulia. Seamus, who is only 37, was also diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago, and his new cookbook, "Hero Foods," a collection of recipes featuring anti-inflammatory, immune-boosting foods, is coming out next spring.

Since Tertulia opened in late July, I have eaten there 5 times, including just last week for my mother's birthday. And even though the menu is tapas-centric and they don't take reservations, (another pet peeve), I love it! The restaurant has a lively front bar room and a large but cozy back room with a mostly-open kitchen, a huge wood-fired grill (warning - it is very warm near the grill), and several long tables for communal dining.

The menu is divided into three sections that I think of as bread and things that taste good on bread, tapas, and large dishes. Let me tell you about my favorites. First, you must start off with a selection of the toasted bread: the pan con tomate (rubbed with tomato - sounds simple, but it's excellent), toasta buey de mar (topped with crab, sungold tomato, avocado, pickled peppers, and herbs), and the tosta huevo roto y jamon iberico (topped with crushed soft-boiled egg, potato, and Iberico ham). Next, pretend your diet starts tomorrow, and order a parade of Tertulia's excellent fried tapas: pimientos de padron (fried padron peppers with sea salt), berenjenas rebozadas (fried fairytale eggplant with citrus yogurt, hazelnut and pepper sauce), nuestras patatas (crispy potatoes, pimenton, and garlic aioli), and croquetas de jamon (ham croquettes). Then move on to paella de mariscos (traditional paella with shrimp, claims and runner beans) and chorizo criollo (garlic sausage with garbanzos). The grilled prime rib is delicious, but I think at $72, it's overpriced. Skip dessert.

I really like the way a meal flows at Tertulia. The staff brings out the food in multiple small batches, resulting in a feast-like feel and providing relaxed diners with lots of time to enjoy the excellent sangria and people watching (keep an eye out for celebrity chefs - I have seen Jonathan Waxman and Harold Dieterle there and I heard from a reliable source that Mario Batali had dinner there just last week).

I realize I am likely partial, (Chef Seamus confused me for my sister last time I was there and gave me a big hug when he saw me), but I think Tertulia just may be the tastiest new place in the West Village.

***

Details:

Tertulia

359 Sixth Avenue (at Washington Place)

New York City

(212) 559-9909

Spanish feast for three with enough sangria to stain your mouth purple for days: $250