Restaurant review: Union Square Cafe

Before my sister came to town and we celebrated my mother's birthday with home made boeuf bourguignon on September 18th, as previously documented, Judd and I took my mom to Union Square Cafe on her actual birthday, September 14th. I had called there on the morning-of and was surprised to hear that they had a table for 3 - could Frank Bruni's recent mixed review in the NY Times have cooled off their business? Every other time I've eaten there, I had had to plan several weeks ahead. So I was a little nervous about what our meal would be like.

But Union Square Cafe is still worth a visit. I started the night with a Venetian Spritz, a delicious prosecco and aperol cocktail (aperol has a bitter orangey flavor). Things kept getting better when our bread basket (complete with tasty flat breads) came with a large square of butter dusted with sea salt and chopped fresh herbs - a small but elegant touch. Our first courses were not great: I ordered a fairly underwhelming salad of mixed greens, candied pecans, peaches, and manchego cheese. The problem was the greens - it was mostly watercress which I don't like. My mom ordered fried calamari which was served with spicy anchovy mayonnaise. This has been on USC's menu for years and I've ordered it in the past but never has that mayo tasted so fishy - ICK! My mom, a blossoming food critic since she's started watching Top Chef, thought the calamari was too greasy and needed to have been better drained on paper towel before being served. So there.

Judd arrived at our table with our entrees -- he had gotten stuck at work -- and things got back on track. The proscuitto-wrapped scallops both my mom and I ordered were fantastic. They were served with sauteed corn, golden chanterelle mushrooms, and watercress (which I hastily removed and set on my bread plate). Judd had duck confit with fingerling potatoes, wilted greens, and a stone fruit mostarda. I didn't try the duck, but the mostarda was wonderful - sweet and sour stewed plums, apricots, and peaches - and he was very happy with the dish. We splurged on sides and ordered both broccoli rabe and polenta with robiolino cheese and pesto - YUM! Our waiter also sent us some garlic potato chips - thanks, nice waiter.

For dessert, we ordered a chocolate chip bread pudding for my mom and the dessert I have ordered EVERY time I have eaten at USC because it is out-of-control delicious: a warm banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream and macadamia nut brittle. My heart skipped a beat just thinking about it again. That dessert is reason enough to go to Union Square Cafe. But it's also a beautiful restaurant with excellent service and sophisticated but un-stuffy vibe. And despite the abundant bitter watercress they served me, it's still one of my favorite places.

***

Details:

Union Square Cafe

21 East 16th Street

New York, New York

(212) 243-4020

Over-the-top dinner for three: ~$300.